There is an energy and charm in Prague that does not exist in all
Central European cities. I love walking through Old Town with its shops,
restaurants and 15
th century astronomical clock showing the Earth at
the center of the universe. I enjoy the outdoor café at the foot of Charles
Bridge—the statue-lined pedestrian walkway spanning the Vltava River —watching
hordes of people laughing, talking, and experiencing life as they amble through
this city full of both history and potential. In many ways, the Czech Republic
is like other countries that have experienced Austro-Hungarian and Soviet rule.
However, Prague manages to reflect a unique personality, embracing the past
while encouraging the future.
One
distinctively Czech experience is the Black Light Theater, where giant puppets,
mimes, dancers and actors create the illusion of floating people and magical
places, all with little dialogue making the performances accessible in any
language. Shows range from Alice in Wonderland to Faust.
When I last visited Prague, there
were Art Nouveau posters throughout the city publicizing the Mucha Museum, housed
in the Baroque Kaunick Palace in New Town near Wenceslas Square. If you visit
only one museum in Prague, this is the one you must see. Perhaps no other
artist more perfectly captures the spirit of the city than Alphonse Mucha
(1860-1939.) Whether you recognize his name or not, you would surely recognize
his graceful art motifs. His posters for actress Sarah Bernhardt, in
particular, with organic borders and elegant figures brought Mucha international
celebrity. But he did more than create a new wave of swirling designs; he was
also a patriot, concentrating on the politics and images of his homeland. This
museum provides an informative video, in English, illustrated with archival
photographs and film that tells of Mucha’s efforts to produce a cycle of
paintings about the history of the Slavic peoples. After18 years, he ultimately
presented his Slav Epic (20 large canvases) as a gift to his home
country. While these paintings retain the grace and elegance of his Art Nouveau
posters, they go beyond superficial prettiness to show the struggles and
history of his people. Mucha’s technique
of allowing figures to make eye contact with the viewers is what brings them so
directly into our hearts. After WWI, when the newly formed Czechoslovakia was
created in 1918, Mucha designed its bank notes and postage stamps. His work is also found in such places as the stained
glass windows at Saint Vitus’ Cathedral at the Prague Castle complex (the
inspiration of Kafka’s novel The Castle.)
In
this city of curved streets and central squares, Art Nouveau buildings blend
with the Gothic, Cubist, Medieval, and Modern giving us an architectural
panorama that constantly captures our attention. The Powder Gate, one of the
original city entrances, dates back to the 11th century, and the
Old-New Synagogue built around 1270 is the oldest in Europe. The Church of Our
Lady Before Tyn is one of many Gothic churches, while St. Nicholas Church
offers beautiful Baroque details. One intriguing post- modern edifice
(officially the Rasin Building,) by famed architect Frank O. Gehry is known as
the “Fred and Ginger” building because one side leans into the other as if
partners are dancing. With the grace of a Mucha poster, Prague has successfully
moved into the present without loosing its connection with the past.
All photos by Bruce A Mellin
